Both cold bluing with Perma Blue solution and Browning using Laurel Mountain solution give you the fastest results and don’t require the user to heat the metals to work. If you can’t afford an expensive setup and don’t have days to get the work done, then these options may be the best choice. This is not to say they yield the best results or that they don’t require a lot of work to be done right. It is only to say that they get results faster than the other methods. Laural Mountain solution is to be applied every three hours and can get satisfactory results in about 4 coats depending on the finish you desire. Cold bluing can be applied to the surface every few minutes and can get satisfactory results in 6-8 coats. Both require some surface preparation that can be done with a few pieces of fine grit sandpaper. You will also need an applicator swab or cotton ball used to apply the solution and they require steel wool to re-prep the surface in between coatings. Other than that, no real equipment is needed to perform the task. These chemicals can be dangerous if inhaled or if they get on your skin so be sure to use gloves when applying and be sure you are in a well-ventilated area.
Hot bluing and your basic browning do require some equipment to get the job done right and you will need specific chemicals to achieve the desired results. When hot bluing it helps to have the right tanks that utilize burners underneath. This gives the user comfort in knowing they are getting an even heat throughout. I have seen people use tanks on bricks and a single burner underneath and this usually won’t yield consistent results if just the middle of the tank reaches the correct temperature. When rust bluing or “Browning” firearms the process seems safer in terms of the fumes let off like when hot bluing. Simply apply your browning solution directly on the parts and hang them in a damp box. This is needed to speed up the rusting process required to achieve the desired finish. Once a light coating of surface rust develops remove it from the damp box and boil the parts in distilled water for about 20 minutes. This helps turn that red rust into a black surface coating. Clean it up with a wire brush or some steel wool (free of oils) and repeat the process about 7-8 times for the best results. Both hot bluing and browning can off gas some pretty bad stuff so please be sure that when attempting either process you are in a well-ventilated area and wearing the proper personal protective equipment like gloves and a respirator. If you want a deep black finish to the firearm, I recommend browning the parts because when hot bluing with Nitrate bluing salts you will get a blue tint in the finish.
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